ATC’s inaugural Trek for Tibet in 2005 was a great success. Justine Curtis, the trek leader, shares some of her experiences…

Memories from Trek for Tibet 2005…

…Arriving in McLeod Ganj, the home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government-in-Exile, we were immediately immersed in an ambient world of Tibetan food, culture and religion. More that 30,000 Tibetan refugees live in India, many of them close to the Dalai Lama and his main temple in the foothills of the mighty Indian Himalayas. We were transferred to our hotel, perched high on the mountainside, with breathtaking views of the sun setting over the valley taking our breath away. We could feel the ancient spirit of Tibet as we listened to the deep sound of the gong from the nearby monastery resonating around us.

At the hotel, our group of ‘Trekkers’ spent the night excitingly waiting for their 6-day trek through the Indian Himalayas, to commence. The following morning, we began with stretches and started trekking on what was a crystal clear, sunny day. Our group was diverse, coming from all over Australia, and ranging from 16 years to 66 years of age. Having raised a combined amount of more than $40,000 for the Australia Tibet Council, this amazing group of people began the trekking adventure of a lifetime. No other tour could possibly recreate the enthusiasm of the trekkers on the morning of the trek. The excitement was electric as one-by-one they set off, putting one foot after the other, realising that they were living their dream – trekking for a free Tibet.

With 36 ponies, 16 porters, numerous camping and kitchen staff and two remarkable guides, we trekked through forests of rhododendrons, across trickling streams, along mountain tracks and past schools full of smiling children going wild at the sight of our Western trekking group. We would stop in village homes for corn chapattis and hot cups of sweet chai, and were warmly welcomed everywhere we went. One night, a few of the braver (or crazier) trekkers, took an early evening dip in a freezing Himalayan river – a great way to end a hard day of walking!

Camping under a blanket of stars we were served a delicious Indian banquet each night. A big bonfire kept us warm as we exchanged stories and listened to Indian and Ladakhi songs, sung by the porters with a passion which cannot be described. We were woken up daily with a hot cup of tea and a breakfast fit for a king before beginning our beautiful trek, taking in some awe-inspiring scenery along the way.

Sometimes the going was tough, even tougher for those amongst us who climbed the challenging Indrahar Pass (4270m) to peer over the Central Himalayas and into Jammu and Kashmir beyond.

The group supported each other all the way and celebrations were lively when we reached the temple atop a mountain covered in Tibetan prayer flags on the second last day of the trek. We spent the last night reminiscing before we commenced our breathtaking descent back into Mcleod Ganj the following morning.

After hot showers, an evening of dancing and celebration and a good nights sleep, we spent an inspirational day looking behind the scenes of the Tibetan community in exile. We were delighted to see a school full of happy faces when we visited the Tibetan Children’s Village, which takes in more than 400 new child refugees each year. The Dalai Lama has only one day ‘holiday’ each year, and he chooses to spend it at this school, playing with the children.

We visited the Tibetan refugee reception centre, and saw dormitories full of newly arrived Tibetans whose faces told the tale of their oppression and perilous journey to escape from Tibet into India. A couple of us were privileged to meet Ama Adme, an ex-political prisoner who is the only survivor from a prison of 300 women. She is a remarkable woman who, having endured so much, now lives in the refugee reception centre teaching art to newly arrived children to help them to express themselves and deal with their anguish.

We also visited the Norbulingka Institute, which is dedicated to preserving Tibetan culture in both its artistic and literary forms. Watching silversmiths, artists, painters and woodworkers in action, we were amazed by the intricacy and quality of the work produced.

Finishing with a climatic visit to the Taj Mahal in Agra, our group of Trekkers were sad to end what had been an enlightening and rich experience. They will never forget the rickshaw ride around Old Delhi, where they experienced the sights, smells and chaotic street life of India’s capital first hand; the overnight train journeys where the sound of the engine became a lullaby as the movement rocked everyone to sleep; the smell of incense and the sight of Tibetan monks debating passionately amongst themselves; watching the Dhauldhar mountain range turn bright pink as the sun disappeared into the mountains below; the animated singing, dancing and mingling of trekkers, porters, and guides around our crackling bonfire; the dedication of our nimble pony men and our strong porters; the faces of the new arrival refugees; the celebrations at the end of our trek in McLeod Ganj; the stark contrasts of beauty versus poverty; and the first glimpse of the Taj Mahal…